THE FOLKLORE OF PLANTS: Kale

Lisa Karen Miller

“Did you ever eat Colcannon

When ‘twas made from thickened cream,

And the kale and praties blended

Like the picture in a dream?

Did you ever take a forkful

And dip it in the lake

Of the clover-flavoured butter

That your mother used to make?”

Anonymous

          Colcannon is also called champ in parts of Ireland, and it is the ultimate warming comfort food. I first had it in a B&B on the coast of Northern Ireland, looking out at a misty sea where fishermen were hauling in lobster pots.  In addition to being yummy, it provides vitamins and minerals vital to health.

          Lots of recipes are available online. You can make a low-fat version by using 1% milk and less butter, but never, ever use margarine. Adding roasted garlic gives it a tangy, caramelized sweetness.

          Kale, a key ingredient in this dish, has a long history as a health-giving food. Rich in antioxidants, calcium, iron, fiber, and vitamins C and K, it is now touted as a superfood.

           I was surprised to learn it also has the reputation among Celtic people of being a matchmaker.

In Scotland and Ireland, Halloween night is presided over by a jester called the Cromartie Fool, who wields his kale stalk like a wand to determine the matrimonial fates of the young.  The unmarried were blindfolded and taken into the garden to uproot kale stalks. The stalks were then analyzed to divine that person’s future spouse.

          Robert Burns, in his 1785 poem “Halloween,” elaborates on this tradition. One young man isn’t best pleased when he pulls a stalk as curly as a pig’s tail.  This implied that his intended might have porcine propensities. A short, stunted stalk revealed the stature of the mate, as did a tall, willowy one. Woe betide any young hopeful who pulled an old and withered stalk.  

          Even the kale’s flavor – bitter, sweet, sour, etc. – foretold the partner’s disposition. The amount of dirt clinging to the roots gave a hint as to the size of the dowry or fortune. A clean root meant the cupboards would be bare. 

          Colcannon (from the Gaelic cal ceannann – white-headed cabbage) was often served on Halloween.  Charms hidden in the steaming bowl of mashed potatoes, kale, scallions, milk, and butter would determine who would be the next to marry. The ring was the most coveted trinket, but the thimble was a sure sign of spinsterhood. Similar objects were hidden in the traditional Christmas pudding, more of an English custom.

          If you’ve even a drop of Celtic blood in you, celebrate kale and St. Patrick with a heaping dish of colcannon.

© Copyright 2023 Lisa Karen Miller