THE FOLKLORE OF PLANTS: Celery

Lisa Karen Miller

          I was surprised to learn that a drink called Dr. Brown’s Cel-Ray soda, made with celery, was once popular on the East Coast.

          It is still being produced.

Diligent foodies can find it in some old-style delis and bodegas in New York and New England states. Made primarily with celery seed, its taste is described as “herbaceous, bitter, and peppery.”  Purists will tell you it pairs best with fatty deli meats, particularly pastrami.

Celery has long had the reputation of being good for upset tummies. The possibly fictional Dr. Brown is said to have debuted the drink as a health tonic in 1868.  Originally billed as Celery Tonic, the name changed to Cel-Ray after the Food and Drug Administration objected. 

Tonic contains quinine, both a preventative and treatment for malaria. This is why British ex-patriots in India began drinking gin and tonic.  The tonic was to protect them from malaria, while the gin staved off boredom, apparently.

But that is a story for another day.  

Celery had been used in Chinese traditional medicine for centuries when it was brought to this country by immigrant farmers. By the 19^th century, celery was the superfood of the day.  Various products, from soap to chewing gum, were quickly dreamed up to capitalize on its moment in the limelight.

Not much has changed in this regard, has it?  It seems a new superfood crops up every few months, and manufacturers (and not a few hucksters) trample each other to get their product made, marketed, and sold first.

The wisest among us will treat them like troubles – calmly wait for a time, and they will pass.

Long favored by dieters, celery has the reputation of having “negative calories,” meaning it takes more calories to digest than it contains. Nutritionists haven’t come to agreement on this, however.

Of course, no Bloody Mary would be complete without a leafy celery stalk to stir it.  Combined with the tomato juice, this makes it almost a salad. 

Right?

Mirepoix is a mixture of diced carrots, onions, and celery used as a flavoring base for many dishes.  In the South, it consists of green pepper, onions, and celery, and is called the Cajun Holy Trinity. The veggies are sautéed in oil or butter just long enough to coax out their flavor, but not caramelize them.

          My favorite dish with celery is still sage and onion dressing, with apples, pecans, and sausage added.

          Can’t wait for Thanksgiving.

© Copyright 2023 Lisa Karen Miller